【HA!Fashion Talk】 “处女座”设计师&狮子座率性女

[HA! Fashion Talk] "Virgo" Designer & Leo Outspoken Girl


“穿上就会变成镁光灯下的女人(即自带气场半径8m的人)”是鲍鲍想传递给大众的品牌理念。鲍鲍眼中的自己是“绝对的处女座设计师”,在设计上极度追求完美,而在生活中的她却是帅气随性的狮子座。这样一个女孩,设计道路上有着怎样的独特见解呢?今天微访谈对话专访,带你走进设计师鲍鑫淼。

"When you put it on, you will become a woman under the spotlight (that is, a person with an aura in 8m radius)" is the brand concept that Bob wants to pass to the static. In Bao Bao’s eyes, she is an “absolute Virgo designer”, who is extremely in pursuit of perfection in design, but in life she is a handsome and casual Leo. A girl like this, what unique insights does she have on design? Today our micro-interview brings you fashion designer Bao Xinmiao.


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【H】:当初是如何选择去法国留学的?

[H]: How did you choose to study in France?


鲍鲍:最初去法国留学时是从3个国家:美国,意大利,法国中选择的。美国的设计过于现代,就和他们的麦当劳一样,比较少有传承意义上的美,意大利的设计虽然华贵,但总是少了份优雅的随意在里面,就像他们的语言有点喧嚣。只有法国,既时尚优雅,又有传统贵族的血脉。后来去到法国后,发现在街上,哪怕是寒冬腊月,都是一身Chanel连衣裙,包括同品牌的围巾,眼镜的老奶奶。现今,入了我骨髓的不止是他们的服饰品味,还有那早上起来香水和咖啡混合的味道。


Bao Bao: Before going to France, actually I made decision from three countries: the United States, Italy and France. The design style of the United States is too modern, just like their McDonald's, lack of beauty in the sense of inheritance. Although the Italian design style is luxurious, it seems to be less elegant and casual inside, just like their language, a bit noisy. Only the French style, both fashionable and elegant, has the blood of traditional aristocrats. After arriving in France, I found that even in the cold winter, on the street were passing by the grandmas with glasses in a Chanel dress and a scarf of the same brand. Nowadays, it is not only the taste of their clothes that comes into my life, but also the smell of perfume and coffee mixed up in the morning.


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【H】:为什么会选择回国发展呢?

[H]: Why did you choose to return to China?


鲍鲍:在法国先是适应了他们的生活节奏,然后再慢慢的融入其文化里,在这个过程当中,我发现其实法国人对于文化的尊重已经完全超越了国家、种族的界限。每当我向巴黎人讲诉自己国家的文化时,都会毫不意外的从他们眼中看到赞叹。但是,那只是对于中国传统文化和艺术。现在从明星到百姓无不追捧着那些耳熟能详的国际大牌,可是问起外国人真正知道的中国牌子,回答往往让人心酸。在毕业后,我还是坚持在巴黎工作了1年多,然后毅然放弃了老板向我提出的工作移民机会,回到了祖国,开始了我的梦想---成立了Designer X Brand,这一品牌。

Bao Bao: In France, I first adapted to the rhythm of their life, and then slowly integrated into their culture. During the process, I found that the French respect for their culture has completely transcended the boundaries between the state and the race. Whenever I tell a Parisian about my country's culture, I will not be surprised to see the surprise on their faces. However, that is only for Chinese traditional culture and art. Now whether the celebrities or the common people are chasing after all the well-known international brands, but when being asked about the Chinese brands, foreigners know really few of them. After graduation I still insisted on working in Paris for more than a year, and then resolutely gave up the job immigration opportunity that my boss offered me, returned to the motherland, started my dream and established the Designer X Brand.


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【H】:品牌成长之路是怎样的?

[H]: How does your brand develop?


鲍鲍:最初我其实是做过一段时间的老师的,做为回国后的适应阶段,然后开始了自己的定制工作室,给一些明星,主持人,或是需要定制服装的一些高端客户开始制作。我的客户日益增多,客户对我也越来越信任,就连明星出外景都希望我可以一直随行。但是经验的开阔不能替代我最初的憧憬。我还是毅然决定放弃,开始去大公司上班。走过国内2家很有名气的公司,学到了很多国内特有的宝贵经验,这时我才敢开始真正的成立我的品牌---DXB。

Bao Bao: At first, I actually had been working as a teacher for a while after returning to China. Then I established my own studio and started making custom made clothes for celebrities, hosts and high-end customers. As time goes by customers are increasing, and they become more trusting to me, even the celebrities hope to have me as a company. Compared with gaining experience, I still want to fulfill my original dream. I decided to quit and start working in a big company. After  working in two well-known companies in China, I have learned a lot of valuable experiences. By then I had the courage to establish my own brand -- DXB.


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【H】:现在有很多设计师品牌,相较他们您觉得DXB最具有怎样与众不同的地方?

[H]: What do you think is the most different for DXB from other designer brands?


鲍鲍:其实现在不止是设计师品牌,很多国内的品牌都会有一个非常重要的问题。就是他们从不去探索自己品牌形象和价值。举例来说,一提到Chanel,大家脑中会浮现的是他们的手工面料。提到ETRO会想到他们的印花。但鲜少有国内的牌子,只要一提到他们的东西大家的脑中会自动浮现出一个品牌形象。

Bao Bao: In fact, nowadays there is a very important problem existed in many domestic brands, not only the designer brands, it seems that they never explore the brand image and value of their own. For example, when it comes to Chanel, their handmade fabric will be the first to come to your mind. And the ETRO, we will think of their prints. But it is hardly to emerge a brand image right away as long as we mention domestic brands.


针对这一问题我在设立品牌初期花了巨大的时间和金钱去做了各种探索、研究。最后决定运用最具中国特色的真丝面料,加入了6-7道工序,并和艺术家蔡长海老师合作了一种手绘真丝面料。这种面料不但让每一件成衣都具有独一无二的花纹,更处理了真丝面料不好打理的问题。让每个顾客都有私人定制的体验。

In order to solve this problem, I spent a lot of time and money in various explorations and research at the initial stage of building the brand. Finally I decided to use the most representative Chinese silk fabrics, added the six or seven procedures, and cooperated with the artist Cai Changhai accomplishing a hand-painted silk fabric. This kind of fabric not only makes each garment have a unique pattern, but also solves the problem of being not easy to care for. It makes a personal customized experience for each customer.


另外,可能是因为我本身是狮子座的女生,加上多年的巴黎文化熏陶,我希望自己的作品可以让每一个穿上她的女人都感受到众人的注视,享受镁光灯下的感觉。这并不意味着作品的浮夸,反倒是那些低调,重视生活品味的有着独立灵魂的人才可以真正的了解到这种感受。

In addition, it might be because I am a Leo girl with many years’ influence of Parisian culture, I hope that my work could make the woman who wears it attractive and enjoyable under the spotlight. It does not mean that the works are exaggerated. On the contrary, those who have low-key, life-oriented and independent souls can truly understand this feeling.


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